Sunday, 13 April 2008

Buenos Airies Pt 1 - March 31 - April 1

The flight from Santigo to Buenos Airies takes you over the Andes - a stunning view from 40,000 feet. Even from that height, they stretch all along the horizon, and when the cloud rolled in, the tallest snow capped ones were still visible above the cloud line.


The Porteños of Buenos Airies love their late nights - even the Tuesday night Drum n Bass nights don´t open their doors until 1.30am. We got in late from the flight and went out in the Palermo District where we were staying for a fashionable 1am dinner.


Empañada´s should be classified as an illicit drug as having only had one you feel the pangs of addiction....


If you think of where the best places might be to go on a cycle tour of Buenos Airies, through the middle of a huge (and pretty raucous) protest against the president may not be one of them. All the protestors seemed to be marching the opposite way to where we went to ride, our guide didn´t seem to notice but with graffiti being sprayed on the walls of the city, loads of armed police, shop shutters down or with guards out front, and helicopters circling over top.... for us gringos it was very intense.


Before getting caught up in the protest, the tour started at San Martin Square where we saw the Malvinas Islands war memorial (Falklands). The ride took us along the old port - Puerto Madero - now home top expensive cafes and restaurants, and out to the river Paraña which stretches 220kms across and sits between Argentina and Uruguay, before heading to San Telmo.


We covered most of the south of the city - riding through La Boca (meaning "the Mouth" and home of Boca Juniors football) where the first Italian migrants settled. Most of the area is still housing blocks, with some parts pretty unsafe but they have dressed up one little section for tourists in bright colours with street vendors, souveniers and cafes. It all feels a bit plastic although the Maradonna lookalike posing for photos was class.


That night we got stuck in what must have been the 50 year storm, ´stranded´ in a bar while every news channel broadcast the downpour from street corners, backyards and rooftops.


With a Boca game coming up in a few days time, we decided to spilt our time in B.A, head up to Iguazu Falls and be back for the weekend - also the best time for the nightlife.....

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